Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
